We leave a little late after giving back the keys to Miroslav. We don't know it yet but the first day hitchhiking with Judith is going to be a big failure. After getting to a not so good spot, waiting quarter of an hour, we move on the highway, between the main tracks and an access strip. This would be unthinkable in western Europe but is something completely normal in Serbia. We stand there with our beautiful and clear Nis sign for almost two hours... some thousands of cars zoom by laughing, making a quick sign or not paying attention. We even see a convoy of swiss cars from all possible cantons passing, maybe hundred of them. Mass exportation? group holiday? We will never know none picked us up.
We then decide to try it by the national road. No more luck here after a good hour or two. Too much heat and exhaust fumes, we chill a bit and have a nap in the nearby park. This makes me think how different opinions are about Belgrade, some say it is just smog noise and stress, i see green everywhere, churches, nice buildings, history and some main crowded chaotic roads passing through.
We finally hit the bus station to get our ticket to Krusevac where two couchsurfers are proposing to host us, Stevan i all ready know from Belgrade and Nenad. It is Nenad who kindly picks us up at the train station. he takes us to his house, his parents are out in their week end house. this is my first contact with a wealthy Serbian family. The place is full of nice furniture on which are sitting statues of all kinds, photos, ceramics etc... like Nenad says, everything has its place and it is not the place to organize a party :)
This place contradicts fully with Stevan‘s which we will visit later to share his evening meal. His mother prepared us some delicious chicken with paprika, plates of kajmak and salads. Everything come at the center of the table and we help ourselves, glowing eyes from appetite. We then go for a visit around town, pass this strange inhabited huge house with a exaggerated big garden. The Grizzly bar, only alternative place in town is our next and lass stop tonight. Here young people meet to listen to their favorite music, drink cheep beer (specially cheap compared to Belgrade). The music is nice, grudge, punk, rock and roll and more! Stevan explains us that this place where young gather until the early morning to drink beers and where they stay even after closing ours is a nightmare of the town. And they do everything to close it down. For example they rehabilitated the road passing in front (i forgot to say everybody gathers outside, in front of the bar not inside.). This road witch was once a walking only road now has occasional cars trying to drive their way through the crowd... Pretty tired we go to sleep soon to the disappointment of Stevan.
L'itineraire
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