L'itineraire

dimanche 31 août 2008

Steaks Dejan Style!

Dejan and Katrina are most welcoming us two poor lost souls in the hills. They offer us hot tea, a place to dry our cloth, soaking wet. Soup, Bread and grandmas Pita. Later we get crackers of all sorts, beer and delicious vines... And Dejan gets out some nice meat out of the freezer for later dinner. It is 5 pm and we jut had a great meal... Dejan is a warm, always smiling baker who speaks little English. Between my poor Serbian and his basic English we understand each other pretty well. I have to laugh every time he is searching for a word and makes big gestures and speaks out some Jebote and other words i wont translate. The girls go to sleep and watch a movie while we keep talking and drinking spritzers :) is this the modern role of men and wife? he he just kidding, small joke regarding yesterday...
Around midnight, the meat has unfrozen and Dejan prepares a whole bunch of schnitzel and an omelet with delicious bacon. This bacon is nothing like what you find around our supermarkets, it is almost completely white, excellent, tasty fat! We literally explode our stomaches and roll to bed after a little Rakija and more Vine.
Chef at work, faster than light when it comes to slaming schnitzel!

A bit of seasoning...

and here you go, Schnitzel for two!

with omelet...

samedi 30 août 2008

Wet beautiful Tara

Today will once again not be the most successful hitchhiking day... After some reasonable time waiting and seeing hundreds of cars pass by, we get a ride out of Cacak (read Tchatchak), to Pozeda (read pogda, their should be a hat on the z) were it rains... After a hot tee we catch bus to Uzice (same, Ugize but i am not going to do a Serbian workshop now...) where we taste the very recommended Kompleta Lepinja, a fresh hot round bread sorta pizza like out of the owen, filled with kajmak (this creamy local cheese i can never get enough off) and cow meat. Tasty, very cheap and filling this is a must try local specialty.


After asking our way around we get to a tunnel where the road is heading through to Tara. The rain is now poring down and there are already almost 10 people waiting for a ride. A woman tells us there is a bus in a couple minutes to Tara, it turns out to be bullshit. Was it to get ride of us or a mistake... never mind, we are at the bus station and get a ticket to Kremna, the last place on the main road pretty close to our national park. The bus drives not along the main road but trough curvy roads in the mountains. The drive is shaky and curvy but the scenery is beautiful despite the rain.

Anyone wants to take a wet hitchhiker along??

Rural Serbia

Yeaaa rain!!!

Upon arrival, we go for a nice warm Turkish coffee you can feel we are somewhat higher in the mountains, it got real fresh. We buy a kisobran (umbrella:) and head to our park under the rain. We are singing in the rain, happy and in a positive state of mind despite the poor luck hitchhiking our way trough Serbia... Soon enough, a veterinarian picks us up and drives us some kilometers up the hill. The heat inside his car is on more boost to our motivation. And it will be needed since we walked a more hour under the rain, only slightly protected by the forest around. Again, everything around is beautiful and we don't mind the rain to much. But this will change as we get into a windy plain and learn from some locals that our destination is 17 more kilometers away...

beaa

The rare cars driving trough don't pick us up and and the first Sobe (room) refuses single night stays... Fortunately, once gain, Serbian hospitality (and maybe a bit of luck) saves us and we get to share the small, warm home of Dejan and Katarina.

vendredi 29 août 2008

Ludilo Cacak

This translates into crazy Cacak, the town were we land after a long, slow day of hitchhiking. After getting up late, as usual thees days, we struggle to get a ride for some 20 kilometers with an other mixed origin (Serbian/Bosnian) emigrated visiting his family and relatives in his now divided home country. He speaks German with a strong almost incomprehensible schwab accent. The real back country type of accent which i struggle to understand. After visiting a monastery, he drops us at a crossing, fortunately shaded as we will sit there for 3-4 hours, holding up our Cacak sign in turns...

The Monastir and my camera going on an acid trip, purple Hendrix style...

Waiting, patiently...

Not so patient ???

Still here, same spot, same sign..

Finally, as Judith is getting desperate and loosing hope, an Autoslep stops. After seeing their phone number all over the rocks on the side of steep roads in the whole Balkan, i finally get a ride in one of those car pulling trucks. Actually it is a sorta improvised one, a big jeep pulling a tow with a white Peugeot 306 police car on it. The dude is sorta boring, not much to say but he takes us to Cacak and drops us in a surprising, exciting spot were we will quickly meet the most interesting people!


The crazy bunch

Ziiiveli Braaaateeee!

Across the road a bunch of men are having a couple beers, you can see in their eys it is not the first one and this is their daily hang out :) It is about 5 in the afternoon, we sweated on the side of the road in todays heat and a refreshment is very welcome so we don't hesitate when they invite us over, smiling, yelling something and franticly waving their hands. The cold BG beer is delightful. So is the second one and the smiles on everybody face. This encounter is one more proof of the Balkan hospitality and their curiosity when it comes to strangers.
After a couple beers everybody is friends and brothers. Brate or tebra as they say here, i thus learn that Serbians also us Verlan, this form of speaking so common amongst young French people consisting in inverting syllables. This is the beginning of a long evening of drinking Rakija as we are soon invited to come to Belco‘s home, meet his wife and taste her delicious coffee and more of his home made Rakija. We are welcomed like kings in Belco‘s garden, under a fruit tree sitting around a low table on low chairs, surrounded by tomato, cucumber, onion and paprika plants. The coffee is delicious like everything we get. A berry jam, sopska salad out of fresh garden vegetables, lots of Rakija and coffee. Communication is not easy but the mood is excellent and we challenge each other for who is to eat the hotter pepper. Hot Hot Hot!
Soon, as i play more stupid games and talk nonsense with my new mates, Judith gets a little upset by something i did not notice or rather did not feel so strongly, the men are sitting outside, laughing and drinking while the wife is inside, preparing us food, coffee and washiing up. I guess this is still more anchored in Serbian society and Judith's west European feminist side jumps up to this.
After enjoying more Food and Rakija, and i have to say there that is most probably the best Rakija i drank and will drink in Serbia. Easy, delicious, strong, and shared with my brate! Well after that we head of, carrying the 4-5 kilos of vegetables we get offered. Tomatoes, Cucumbers, onions, plums and of course some real hot peppers of all kinds. Purple, green, red, small and big they are all different tons of HOT :) O and also a huge jar of wild cherry jam.

Fresh Organic Fooooood

We head for the cheapest hotel in town and i slowly come down from my little clouds, this time around my brothers was honest, warm, fully lived, a little crazy and very welcome after today ride, mearly half of our way to Tara.

jeudi 28 août 2008

Swimming, sunshine and ice cream.

This is what the day was mostly about. After waking up, with a slight hangover for some, a big one for others (and none for me) we head for a healthy breakfast. Of course this does not really exists in Serbia and we get a sort of Serbian adaptation of the English breakfast. No beans, but fried eggs, kajmak, a soft feta, sopska salad and not so good sausages. Tasting like everything but meat. None of us will eat them. Nenad is upset that restaurants serve such low quality food, just for the sake of low prices and tourists. It didn't use to be like this all the time, bake in the days when it was a little more quiet, restaurants could not afford to disappoint their customers, now there are so many people coming around that they just serve anything and don't care about quality.
We then head to the overcrowded swimming pool. The only shade being under the cafes umbrellas we spend the afternoon there drinking coffee, eating ice cream, playing card and occasionally getting up for a quick swim or a game of fuzz ball.

Our home :) Thank you Nenad!



At night, Nenad heads back to Krusevac, it is Sunday and tomorrow is an other working day. We are left with the keys and a whole floor for us. Kitchen and big living room included. After watching the local water polo game, between two sides of fired up supporters, we cook up some nice fresh tomato sauce for a big pasta plate. Tonights rest is welcome as tomorrow we head back on the road for Tara national park, Kusturica‘s village and then Sarajevo.

mercredi 27 août 2008

Spa sessions??

Waking up is not easy once again... The day kicks of with some coffee and some intense, long blog writing. After that we head off to Nenad‘s summer house in Vrnjaska Banja, small thermal city with a well known heeling spring. The setting is beautiful but the town a little touristic and crowded with people. Nicola, a friend of Nenad joins us for tonights carnival closing party. The town is full of people running around and we make our way through this semi chaos. The house is beautifully set on the top of a hill with view on the pool and the surrounding hills. We get in for sunset, have a nice pizza, a couple beers and check out the carnival. Kids are franticly running and screaming around the dancers. Music is switching from folk to pop through modern adaptations such as folky kill bill versions.

Nikola, Nenad and Jelen Pivo!

carnival curiosity...

We head back to the chalet were we drink a beer with the neighbors and I let everyone taste some of Milan‘s grand fathers Rakija. Its strong and good but would be even better a little fresher. Tonight there is a concert in the old towns amphitheater. We don't know it yet but we will get an incredible setting, a very well adapted laser light show and the blasting sounds of Roberto Rodriguez. But first we go to a somewhat fancy cafe bar were most men of our group and around us will spend most of their time hypnotized by on girls ass... Yes it was quite unique, even the girls around were staring at it and god knows what they were thinking about...
I wasn't to keen on more electronic music tonight despite of the delicious cocktails from the bar. But i still go along and hit the main party, after negotiating a group price, the surprise entering this arena was great. I m not sure if they could find a better place for such an event. As you get in, from the bottom of the half circle, you immediately feel the music through your body and the general atmosphere takes over any worries, you get into it right away.

Let the party begin! And it went on until late in the night... and so long for the healthy spring water, leave that to the old people :)

mardi 26 août 2008

Back on the road, with great company

We leave a little late after giving back the keys to Miroslav. We don't know it yet but the first day hitchhiking with Judith is going to be a big failure. After getting to a not so good spot, waiting quarter of an hour, we move on the highway, between the main tracks and an access strip. This would be unthinkable in western Europe but is something completely normal in Serbia. We stand there with our beautiful and clear Nis sign for almost two hours... some thousands of cars zoom by laughing, making a quick sign or not paying attention. We even see a convoy of swiss cars from all possible cantons passing, maybe hundred of them. Mass exportation? group holiday? We will never know none picked us up.
We then decide to try it by the national road. No more luck here after a good hour or two. Too much heat and exhaust fumes, we chill a bit and have a nap in the nearby park. This makes me think how different opinions are about Belgrade, some say it is just smog noise and stress, i see green everywhere, churches, nice buildings, history and some main crowded chaotic roads passing through.


We finally hit the bus station to get our ticket to Krusevac where two couchsurfers are proposing to host us, Stevan i all ready know from Belgrade and Nenad. It is Nenad who kindly picks us up at the train station. he takes us to his house, his parents are out in their week end house. this is my first contact with a wealthy Serbian family. The place is full of nice furniture on which are sitting statues of all kinds, photos, ceramics etc... like Nenad says, everything has its place and it is not the place to organize a party :)
This place contradicts fully with Stevan‘s which we will visit later to share his evening meal. His mother prepared us some delicious chicken with paprika, plates of kajmak and salads. Everything come at the center of the table and we help ourselves, glowing eyes from appetite. We then go for a visit around town, pass this strange inhabited huge house with a exaggerated big garden. The Grizzly bar, only alternative place in town is our next and lass stop tonight. Here young people meet to listen to their favorite music, drink cheep beer (specially cheap compared to Belgrade). The music is nice, grudge, punk, rock and roll and more! Stevan explains us that this place where young gather until the early morning to drink beers and where they stay even after closing ours is a nightmare of the town. And they do everything to close it down. For example they rehabilitated the road passing in front (i forgot to say everybody gathers outside, in front of the bar not inside.). This road witch was once a walking only road now has occasional cars trying to drive their way through the crowd... Pretty tired we go to sleep soon to the disappointment of Stevan.

Ohhh my nice little toes which are not in so good condition but are beeing taken care of, dont worry.

lundi 25 août 2008

Routine in Belgrade??

Writing the following made me realize i slowly got into my routine in Belgrade... Only and fortunately broken by the presence of Judith. Today, we go for classical late Serbian Burek breakfast (always with yogurt!), do laundry, go to the colorful markets and wnder around.

St Sava Church, the bigest orthodox church in Europe.

From inside, still in construction.

Belgrade benches... and this is the comfortable one :)

This is th other option :)

Atnight, we meet at Jeremies for a French apero. The cheese Judith brought from Switzerland and France makes everybody around smile, long time since we last tasted this flavors... With some Serbian salami and a Montenegrin bottle of red vine it is just perfect. Mina and Natasa join use lat after one more of their over book busy days... Those two, like any decided Serbian citizen who want to be able to do what he dreams, never stop, work, work, coffee, work, friends, mobile... A friend of Stephanie joined use and Mina happily distributes advice about a short trip to Montenegro to them. One more roof of Serbian hospitality and helpfulness. I write this after coming back from Rainbow where i was reminded once again how one sided and extremely brutal the Serbs were described by the media in Europe and the world. Maybe i shoul include a little history lesson?? Actually i will one day.

dimanche 24 août 2008

The real storry about my birthday...

Once again i was out in th middle of nowhere and could not update my blog. Sorry. But it does not seem to bother anyone, except Judith.

So after showing Judith around town, we joined Mina and Natasa for a beautiful fish dinner at Reka, a well known konaba to celebrate events. Judith, Jeremie, Mina, Natasha, Stephanie, Milan and Ana are in the place. So is the band preforming tonight. As usual in Serbia, we will start eating around 9-10 after a little Rakija aperitif. What to say more than it is real nice to have a proper dinner surrounded by friend thousands of kms from home :) I even got presents, a bottle of homemade Rakija from Milan's grandfather and a nice Belgrade t-shirt.


Mina Natasa and Jeremie
The atmosphere in the place.
Midnight walk after dnner, at the gates of a cemtary. Again the picture i a bit dark, expect beter picturs as i just acquird a new camera.

I could also mention quickly why i am late again... Happy hitchhiking surprise again! On my way to civilized south of Macedonia where i would have written some more updates, i was picked up by a bus full of hippies and alternative people :) They were heading to meet their big worldwide family, the rainbow family! and it was such a nice, fun living, loving ride with the family that i spent 3 days with them in the middle of nowhere. But more on this in a while!

Also, i am writing this on the newly acquired ultra portable laptop, eee pc :) waiting for the bus to meet Mina and Natasa, i realize how contradicting this is with the place i come from, were i lived with practically nothing. D‘amour et d‘eau fraiche comme on dis en France. I guess buying this was a professional deformation, i cannot live without a computer :)

lundi 18 août 2008

25 years old, o my god.

Next day, next thing was my birthday! yeaaa. Mina and Natasa booked a table at the Reka Kafana, on the Danube river, specialities of fish and meet, live music. It is very famous amongst Serbs for wedings and other big parties.

dimanche 17 août 2008

Back to calm...

Back to Belgrade, today is my mother and Stephanies birthday! After watching Ghost dog and falling asleep in the middle of it we have quiet night of celebration: a good meal in a restaurant at Ada. We are still tired from the festival and get some well diserved rest.

View from the plane on switzerland alps and lake.

Next day, Judith arives from switzerland, after renting a nice apartment quite well located, the owner drives me to the Airport since the formalities made me miss my bus to be there on time. Again the very kindness and helpfullness of the Serbian (and more generaly ex-Yougoslavian) pleases me. But not as much as to meet Judith again :) We spend a day wondering around belgrade, drinking coffee, and have an exclent Serbian meal at night.
Ok nothing very interesting for you readers here... sorry. Here are some more pictures.


St Marc Church.

An aperence :)

mmmh Stephanies syrilic alphabet wich i almost master by now.

samedi 16 août 2008

Last day at Exit

Time flies and it is allready our last day here. One more afternoon wondering around this city turend upside down for a couple days, chilling the overcrowded beach, meeting my friend Stevan from Belgrad again. One more night of crazy concerts, Drum n Bass and electronic music...

Found this old school car wondering around.

After bumbing into Mina and Natasa unexpectedly again, in the streets of Novi Sad this time, they recomend us a good Kafana. Me and Jeremie, always up for a good big fat meat plate head to the Duck (in Serbian, forgot how it is called) and have our hudge plate! We get into the forteress a bit late, but in time for Yougoslavian Punk ledgend Pekinska Patka. Good music, probably excelent lyrics (i only understood the one in english) but the lifted like, fake teeth smiling face of the band leader leaves a wierd impression for me.
I am suposed to meet the crew again before begining of the Sex Pistols concert but instead, i find a very wasted girl who keeps speaking to me in Norvegian and look pretty damn wasted. She is serbian, lost her friend and obviously took some acid or other psychadelic drug. During the Sex pistols concert we watched toghether, she looked at me with eyes full of tears at the end of numerous songs, loosing complete control of her emotions. "I m sorry, it is too strong" she kept saying, followed by incomprehensible mumble in Serbian or Norvegian, could not tell... Surprising encounter :) The concert itself was quite pleasant to me at least, Jonny Rotten looked very much like a distroyed clown, wierd black and white long shirt, his disformed face with missing teeth, the shoes, the pant wich made him look like a disarticulated pantin and of course his numerous strange moves and faces.

The best electronic performance at Exit 08 to my taste, DatA wich we saw right after the Sex Pistols.

After ending the night listening to the massive drum and bass of Shy FX and Dillinga (even better than yesterdays Roni Size), we head to find Nicolas and Anna and go catch a train home to belgrade. They have to catch a plan home to europe and are in a bit of a rush.

Waiting for the train, no sleep, still in the buzz from the festival and thinking we might never get on the train with all these people. Finaly the train arrived everybody got on, it was packed no more space until all the english got of realising the train was bound to Belgrade and not Bratislava... We get to belgrade confortably seated but quite sweaty and of course exhausted. Me and Nicolas have a couple of those unstopable giggles.

vendredi 15 août 2008

Third day at Exit

This is the very awaited day of Gogol Bordelo, Manu Chao, Afrika bambaataa, Kruder and Dorfmeister, Kiril and more!! Unfortunatly i had no time to think about making some pictures let alone make them something correct... So i have few and not so good pictures of that day.

From here the the scene there is quite a distance and some 30.000 people...

The crowd was hudge and quite amazingly, after meeting Jeremies friends, we are joined, in the middle of this hudge crowd by Stephanie and later by Nicolas and his girlfriend Anna. The Gogol bordelo concert is scheduled a bit early but the crowd is allready warmed up and the concert is explosiv. Since me and Jeremie have absolutely no will to see Juliette and the licks, we leave the group, promise to meet around here, next to the projector for Manu Chao. We go wondering around and find some quit brutal metal concerts (i used to love this music but now except for bands like Nine inch nails, it only rarely makes an impression on me) and a couple stage changes. We stop at one of the and wait for the begining of Besh o Drom ... sounded a bit like Bezodrom and the amount of instruments on scene woke our couriosity :) It s a good surprise but after a few songs it all sounds the same.


We head for Manu Chao. Incredibly, we imidiatly find the 3 friends of Jeremie, Stephanie, Nicholas and Anna and making our way further to the front we come across Mina and Natasa!! We have tried to meet them all nighte yesterday and now we stop searching, we finaly find them!! in the middle of some 30.000 people! The concert is great, jumping around for 2 h, finaly get some real dancing action in this festival. Like always the crowd is too dense in the begining but looses up with time.

Tonight, for change, we get tired of the electronic music, Kruder and Dorfmeister are very disapointing to me but the little we saw from Kiril was fantastic! . We will get a little more sleep this night since it is "only" 5. This is the night were we are happy to sleep by the danube and not in the official camping where a tree branch will colaps due to that nights storm and kill a young macedonian.

jeudi 14 août 2008

Second day at Exit

After chilling the afternoon on the beach, refreshing ourselves and talking about music with my new fanzine journalist friend. I meet Jeremie, Nicolas and Stephanie for a bit a food (junk food of course, bureks, pljeskavicas, pizzas will be on the menu all week end with an occasional asia wok...) and a nice cold draught Jellen Pivo of course.
We slowly head over the bridge and along the streets to the festival. Making our way through the maze of fetival-goers and all kinds of vendors, i get an other sharper idea of this daily pilgrinage into the froteress. What you could walk in mear 10 minits, is done in more then half an hour, stopping to buy cigaretts, beers, hats, t-shirts, home made sandwiches, industrial hot-dogs, ice creams, noisy toys or wistles. Everything is Exit branded and it seems like everybody in Novi Sad turned into a short time vendor to get a little money out of this. It is realy pleasant to see this self organisation, the lack of regulation (or maybe i am simply not aware of the rules or mafia governing this) resulting in you beeing able to get fresh beer from a simple citizen using a big plastic basin filled with ice to chill the beer and energy drinks under the burning sun. And this at any time of the day or night...
The begining of the night is quiet, we sit and listen to a bit of reggae befor heading for the first concerts : Smoke and soul, great discovery followed by great (and expected) disapointment of Gentelman.


Gentelman at the third bigest scene, its all about wawing your hand during the 36th and 93rd second of each song....

An other view from further back. Full of people, we moved some 200 m further to find Serbian music and dance to Mesecina :)

End of the night, begining of the day, the sun is rising, people moved to the electronic scene were the party goes on every morning until 8... It is now time for sunglasses and styled looks.

The night will be short tonight again, only a couple hours by the refreshing danube before the sun makes it imposible to sleep.

mercredi 13 août 2008

First day in the Exit madness

I happily and easily arrived in Novi Sad were the streets are allready full of live and activity, people playing guitar and drums on the streets and in the parks and drunk englishmen all over. Mmm i will hear lots of Serbs complaining about them to a very drunk me but have to admidt englishmen are loudder, dirtier than me and a bit a little regardless about were they are, its just like home with cheeper beers.
I am supposed to meet Mina, Natasa, Jeremie and Nicolas here but none of them is there today, they will arrive on Friday. So after resting a bit in a park, recovering from the sleepless train journey, i meet some crazy people. Most crazy of all, probably Dr. Rock. We have quite a few drinks with his gang on the park lawn before getting into the festival.

Dr Rock on his way to the festival, crossing this crazy bridge were massive loudspeakers blast music. We are also half way down the Rakija bottle and full of beers...

Dr Rock and ???

Reloaad, a bit of energy. It is about 10pm, i am way to drunk for the time of the night. Got caught up by events once more. Around midnight exausted from the trip and Dr Rocks crazyness, i fall asleep on a lawn of the festival, to wake up a couple hours later for....

a beautiful early sunrise and DJ Hype!!

Around 8 am i go to sleep in a remote place i found, in the middle of a bambous field, nice and fresh and shaded. Far from the afterparties along the danube, the crazy camping and all the englishmen ;) Tonight was very rocky.

mardi 12 août 2008

Back online after Guca

Before resuming the story were i left it, at Exit festival, here is a small paranthesis at guca (about a month after Exit...). In Guca i had the extreme pleasure to meet some of my friends from Lausanne again! Lorin, Marcel, Niko and Pj came out far in the East to live the wilderness, excitment Guca festival. It was all about trompets all day, grilled pigs and lambs on the stick, drinking Rakija and Beer and dancing aroung like crazy. 3 days of madness realy...

Retrouvailles :)

Living the intense music...

Sorry for leaving you without news for a couple days (didnt bother many it seems...). I m back and will try to keep up with the daily posting. Now back to Exit and more on Guca in a month :)

samedi 9 août 2008

EXIT. sorry nothing today, i m late :(

well i wrote this on 28 july... time goes by and i have little time... or i dont care any more for this blog.

-today i am in Guca, Serbia listening to crazy folk music, that i can already say now! with Judith, Niko, Lorin, Marcel and PJ!!-

vendredi 8 août 2008

Getting to EXIT!!!

To get there in time, i set a side my hitchiking way for a couple kilometers and took a train to Timisora. But i did the last 300 km hitchiking again. Speaking of hitchhiking, today loads of them arrive in paris from different destinations! check out the 888 project!

So after a shity journey on the train, fighting with ticket contolers wanting to sell me a couchet. They would wake me up, yell stuff about a 25 lei couchet and other words i did not understand... I said i only have 14 left and showed my wallet. But that didnt help the dude kept waking me up and in the end, at about 1 am, he draged me in an empty compariment as a 14 lei couchete... of course it was a ripe off... The controler for this cariage was not the same and wanted to send me back to my original place. I played stoopid and went back to sleep. Then it was just unceesing doors opening, train shaking, neighboors loud talking and no sleep. Until at 4 i was sleeping and this time the police woke me up for id check... Told me to watch my stuff... yea thanks...
At about 4.30 the controler came again, this time with other guys checking the guys who check tickets... And they forced me back into my original compartiment... their i got a couple hours aof bad sleep before getting to Timisora...

A mall at 9 am, nothing except a long queu for passports (shops open at 10....)
Cathedral.
A fountain next to wich i sat for a while and watched people come by, some of them coming back. A police man, a gypsy, an old men, a kid, a mother...

Timisora Streets.

I then left Timisoara about 12 to get to EXIT. Yea EXIT Festival, gona be good times! After paying a ride to the next town, my last 7 lei, suporting someones studies. Passing the greatest Pork farm in the east. Seeing all the corn Fields with GMO Corn from dear Pioneer.... I get to the border with an other young very kind ride.

At the border, the Customs officer helps me to get a ride to Novi Sad. Everybody at the border knows where i am going and we have a good laught, they wonder about my trip and are quite astonished. Any how i thank them for my second ride with a truck driver. Little Serbian conversation. It is his birthday and he offers me what is left of his bottle of Brandy!!

The Exit starts well. I have a couple beers in a park meet some Bosnians and get real drunk but that a storry for tomorrow.

Old forteress of Novi Sad! EXIT FESTIVAL :)