Ramadan.

Today is the second day of Ramadan, I was not aware of this until i saw the big sign above the main street of Berat and talked to the women from the info office. What i don't know either is that i will make a very interesting and helpfull (relativ to last nights state of mind) experience about this today.

I get up at 7, visit the cities castle and old town, you have to climb up a steep road and even in the early morning it is tough. But it is worth it, in the early hours it is free :) and no one is in the small streets up here. Berat is definitely the city of thousand windows. I get a private tour into the building holding the phonographic museum witch opens at 9 only. The guard lets me in for a couple pictures and some very interested questions. Where are you from, what do you do, how long etc... the usual stuff :)

Back down i pay for my room, get a nice smile from the owner and head for the Internet cafe and then the bus station. I meet a young helpful men at the bus stop. I would have waited to more hour if it wasn't for him. I was already ion the 2 o'clock bus, the twelve o´clock bus only passes trough, does not stop in the station. I say this because i did not know it yet, but i will meet him again very soon!

As i get of in Vlore, i am full of doubts, it is 2pm, the heat along with some 18kilo on my back is barely stand able and i have no idea where to go or what to do. I head for what seems to be the old center. A couple statues with the date 1912... no idea what happened that year. An other on for a dude named Ismel who was born and died the same day... no idea who he is and no one around to tell me. At this time of the day in Albania, everyone sleeps somewhere. The shops close for a couple hours, the streets are deserted. I sit in a park quite close to some elders playing dominoes or cards. I sit a while and then walk through fresh water blown away by the wind from a big fountain...

And i decide to head for the beach. Get harassed by a first Taxi driver. The mood is not at its highest. What the fuck do i do here?? i am tired, i am sick of moving all the time. where are my friends? what the fuck do i do alone here, in this heat, with all the rare people i come across staring at me as if i was from mars... Big moment of questioning again, i should definitely head back to Belgrade soon and go rest in Istanbul. But still i want to see the sea and the beautiful beaches i was told about. So i walk...

At the next taxi station, i get harassed again, this time they want to convince me to go for a 20 euro room... And Destiny kicks in once more... Two young Albanians walk by and ask if i need translation. We start talking. They are students of the peace Corps i contacted a bit late and did not get an answer from! they speak very good English and speak with great admiration about their teachers. We dump the taxi guy and go for coffee. They will totally help me out of this situation, coffee with a lot of sugar gives me the initial boost and when Wilson tells me he knows a 10 euro room and the he could even host me, i am delighted and heve no more problems.

We move at Wilsons where i drop my stuff before going round town. He shows me the place he worked at, introduces me to his boss, to his friends. Explains that 1912 is the year of declaration of independence ad that Ismel is the dude who declared it and raised the flag! he bring me to the place it was raised where an old man shouts stuff and point at what i should take a picture of, it is the nicest picture i have from vlore i think...

We then head for what has to do with my introduction. Sorry i get carried away again and you have lots of shit to read :) We go to his mosque where after watching the evening prayer, i get to share the food with his community. Delicious lamb with slightly spicy potatoes, rice, salde and yogurt. Delicious! the best mean i had in a long time. And every one around is friendly, a little curious and welcoming. And right opposite to me sits the men who helped me out with the bus... A great experience which made me think a bit.

Although these are special times, because of the Ramadan, the hospitality of Muslim make me realize that it is very easy to be convinced into this religion. Unlike what is believed, they are not all extremist and leave you the freedom to practice the religion as you feel. I for my part think will never be a Muslim (or practice any other religion) because i am not desperately looking for answers, impossible explanation, spirituality or a community to belong to. I am a rational, got scientific education and am lucky enough to have all the friends to support me and all i need to live comfortably. None the less, i was very impressed and will try to make my point without further justification or side explanations. i believe the reason Islam is a raising religion in great cities like London, Paris or others is not the great job imams do to convince people into it. Rather it is the very warm, supportive, opened, not demanding, helping, respecting, tolerating community that it offers. This is all the capitalist society, specially in the anonymity of cities, does not give. It sometimes, if you are willing and lucky enough, gives enough money to survive or even to buy stuff (which might not be what you need). But it does not care for you, especially if you are an illegal immigrant, a homeless person or some sort of marginal. Maybe i understood this that way because i was myself desperate and lonely at the time i met Wilson and because he offered me, just like his friends offered him before, a home, food and someone to talk to (not about my problems but about life, religion, gay couples, tolerance, America and much more debatable subjects...)

I was long once again, got carried away in socio religious theories :) And don't get me wrong about it, I don't advocate religion. simply point out it fills a lack of communal sens in our society. Reactions are welcome!

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