I decide to check out a bit of tiny Kosovo today. basically there is a sort of circling road going around the main interesting cities. From Skopje west to Peja, then south to Prizren then back east a little to get back on the north to south road leading to Skopje (and Mitrovica in the north). Mmm not very clear all this. Anyhow, instead of going ridiculous 100kms directly to Skopje, i decide to go visit some big monasteries next to Peja and then the nicest town of Kosovo, Prizren. Making it almost 300 kms around the city.
But soon, the rain and unsuccessful hitchhiking makes it happen otherwise, i return to Skopje and decide to make it straight south, wherever the rides will take me. The first one takes me to Garanicica, the Serbian town composed of “refuges” from Pristine, they left under pressure of living conditions amongst Albanians remembering times of occupation and still hating the Serbs they come across. The driver works for an NGO taking care of kids and helping them with homework. He was in Skopje to get paper for his new driving license. He had one for 3 years but since Kosovo police don't always recognize Serbian papers... he had to do it again, all over, from the beginning. An other concrete example of human stupidity. Funny town, as is spend my last euro on Burek and yogurt, i realize that here, people pay with dinners, the Serbian currency. Also everyone speaks Serb and Albanian is not recommended, so said my driver. I visit rapidly the monastery with is under KFOR protection... As i walk pass the Swedish guards, i discover the monastery and what seems to be an older hospital
This stop was short but i realize that as i though, UN is very probably not going to move out of here at the end of 2008 as they plan.
I then get a short ride with Serbs who work for the UN and will bring back to the main road. One of them tells me how he spent 1000 euro on fake papers to apply for a visa to Sweden (or Norway maybe...). And got refused... They are happy sad people. You who reads this in your comfy office chair, please realize once again how lucky you are to be born on the right side and allowed travel the world freely. Why would someone need to be allowed to do so??! jut because he lives in a country on a given list.
The next ride is with an Albanian who lived in Canada for 8 years now and tells me about his business there. First the official one, air conditioning and heating, then the other one. He brings up the subject asking about weed prices in France and Switzerland. He used to sell 50 kilos every 8 weeks in the US for about 5000 dollars... no wonder he is renting a big car and taking 2 month of... He is however very nice and funny. Tells about how Macedonians hate Albanians (very true from my little experience, i was also told Serbian police is nicer than the Macedonian)
As we get into Skopje, the behavior of the copilot who did not say anything until now changes. He yells out the window, makes weird sounds. Actually i realize he is saying hey my man... but in a fast and strange intonation. He also talks to he chicks, the drivers stops looking at the roads to star at asses etc... pretty normal Balkan thing actually. I don't get to leave them without taking with me a liter and a half of a home made raki... And head of the Aurelie’s place with that extra kilo and a half on my back.
Aurelie is a friend of Timis from Pristina. Very nice French girl on a voluntary mission with an NGO. An other Frenchman on the same program is still around but about to leave. We go for coffee and internet. At about 9 pm we are done with our respective stuff and treat ourselves a fresh beer. The discussion kicks of on reporting, my new dream :) she is writing for a small local paper and i ask for advice, it is however her first attempt. As i mention what i would like to write about, more positive things, we get onto the Balkan subject. And since she has written her memoir on this subject, we have quite some material to discuss. We then talk about me. :) I realized, a couple days ago already, that my lonely travel often bring me to some extra need for attention and to be at the center of something. Basically we analyze me :) very interesting, well i guess since time flys and it is suddenly midnight as we go for a bit of pasta (damn i didn't eat anything since my morning Burek...). And off to sleep after more and more incoherent chatting.
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Kosovo. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Kosovo. Afficher tous les articles
lundi 20 octobre 2008
dimanche 19 octobre 2008
A couple days with UN and ESCE
What would be a stay in Pristine without spending some days with people from the organizations that you can see all over the place. UN cars, KFOR, ESCE, Police and others..,, authority and organizations are present in all forms and everywhere. Mostly seen as huge white 4 wheel drives. I have my foot in the door since Nicola with who i partied at EXIT 2 month ago is now working here as an intern with ESCE.
He will host me for the next nights and introduce me to his friends from ESCE, NGOs, UNMIK etc... It will be a funny time and starts on a Friday night. I really feel like mentioning my Friday afternoon frenzy before however. I get to pick up my stuff at Timis/Kreshniks and feal really excited about being in a new city again. everything is great, the sky (though it is not blue and sunny), the buildings, the cars (as i said many official 4x4 along the oldest ladas), the atmosphere and people. A comparable feeling to that of my crazy ride in south Albina or as i arrived in Pristina not so loog ago. But this time, it has nothing to do with hitchhiking it is one of those moment where i feel a burst of joy without knowing why.
So we first hit Nicolas friend, Alberik's house party. And what a party, kicking of with 2 bottles of some real nice French vine and a couple cheeses he brought back from his last holidays home. Mmmm i had forgotten those tastes! The vine and cheese is running out as the party gets busier and crazier. But remaining reasonable :) no trashing, no yelling, no crazy phone calls on the balcony (remember PichPich??), no loud music. But very good mood, relaxed and interesting people around, and good drinks of course. Cafe bucheron is best with rum but also works fine with Skanderbeu Cognac. I get into an interesting discussion with Mark fro Switzerland, about politics of course, again :) What a mess there was in the Balkans these last centuries and what a job it is to try solving some problems without adding new ones and still respecting peoples independence and culture. As we leave and head for a taxi to the club we relax and start talking about India and great trekking in Nepal (damn cant wait to get there! but no hurry everything in its time :))
The club is a long taxi ride out of city, filled with half foreigners from various organizations half well off locals. Like for example this girlfriend of Krshniks who recognizes me and gets little upset since i don't immediately. She surprises me as she tells me i was in HER restaurant. I give her more reasons to be upset replying i do remember now meeting her but not that she owns no restaurant, it is your fathers dear. She did a pretty good make up job since last time i have seen her and is hiding her youth (probably around 19) but surprisingly good looking. I have been here two days and already meet people in clubs... That is how small Pristine is, especially at nighttime. We party hard and long, when every one catches cabs back to the city, we hit the next door grizzly club with Nicola and a newly met volunteer, Greg. In the end, as we are leaving, he gets pick pocketed. Nothing to bad about it, he didn't loose much but gets a little upset for a while. And god did Nicola make me laugh tonight! especially as he wanted tto get of with Greg And then to his former apartment!
Next days are again all coffee, short walks out, a birthday super, birthday toast, birthday around the bars, bowling, blogging, talking, playing play station, looking for a ping pong place, laughing at last nights events, eating burek, Sujuk, pleskavica, chicken burgers and Salad of course ;) O and of course some nice local beer, Peja. Sundays very early bedtime is very welcome to end this weekend and start off fresh.
He will host me for the next nights and introduce me to his friends from ESCE, NGOs, UNMIK etc... It will be a funny time and starts on a Friday night. I really feel like mentioning my Friday afternoon frenzy before however. I get to pick up my stuff at Timis/Kreshniks and feal really excited about being in a new city again. everything is great, the sky (though it is not blue and sunny), the buildings, the cars (as i said many official 4x4 along the oldest ladas), the atmosphere and people. A comparable feeling to that of my crazy ride in south Albina or as i arrived in Pristina not so loog ago. But this time, it has nothing to do with hitchhiking it is one of those moment where i feel a burst of joy without knowing why.
So we first hit Nicolas friend, Alberik's house party. And what a party, kicking of with 2 bottles of some real nice French vine and a couple cheeses he brought back from his last holidays home. Mmmm i had forgotten those tastes! The vine and cheese is running out as the party gets busier and crazier. But remaining reasonable :) no trashing, no yelling, no crazy phone calls on the balcony (remember PichPich??), no loud music. But very good mood, relaxed and interesting people around, and good drinks of course. Cafe bucheron is best with rum but also works fine with Skanderbeu Cognac. I get into an interesting discussion with Mark fro Switzerland, about politics of course, again :) What a mess there was in the Balkans these last centuries and what a job it is to try solving some problems without adding new ones and still respecting peoples independence and culture. As we leave and head for a taxi to the club we relax and start talking about India and great trekking in Nepal (damn cant wait to get there! but no hurry everything in its time :))
The club is a long taxi ride out of city, filled with half foreigners from various organizations half well off locals. Like for example this girlfriend of Krshniks who recognizes me and gets little upset since i don't immediately. She surprises me as she tells me i was in HER restaurant. I give her more reasons to be upset replying i do remember now meeting her but not that she owns no restaurant, it is your fathers dear. She did a pretty good make up job since last time i have seen her and is hiding her youth (probably around 19) but surprisingly good looking. I have been here two days and already meet people in clubs... That is how small Pristine is, especially at nighttime. We party hard and long, when every one catches cabs back to the city, we hit the next door grizzly club with Nicola and a newly met volunteer, Greg. In the end, as we are leaving, he gets pick pocketed. Nothing to bad about it, he didn't loose much but gets a little upset for a while. And god did Nicola make me laugh tonight! especially as he wanted tto get of with Greg And then to his former apartment!
Next days are again all coffee, short walks out, a birthday super, birthday toast, birthday around the bars, bowling, blogging, talking, playing play station, looking for a ping pong place, laughing at last nights events, eating burek, Sujuk, pleskavica, chicken burgers and Salad of course ;) O and of course some nice local beer, Peja. Sundays very early bedtime is very welcome to end this weekend and start off fresh.
samedi 18 octobre 2008
USA Pristine (United States of Albania hehe)
After sitting in cab, listening to some reconstitution of the now 7 years old tragedy I am now in the American University in Kosovo. I don't know if it is the dramatic voice, music and sound effects of the reconstitution or rather the sterile atmosphere of the cafeteria i am sitting in but i feel a slight uneasiness. Soapy folk music on the tv, new tables and plastic chairs, young rich students (immigrants or children of the elite i guess), all working on identical laptops, with identical bags, slight bitchy looks for th girls, polo or chemise for the boys... The toilets are just as sterile, white neons and antiseptic smell. I guess I d still have to prefer this to the usual Turkish toilets... Oh a big FAT FAT Cartman cat just walked by.
Since i arrived i have been in this sterile milieu all the time, it would probably have seemed normal coming straight from Switzerland but now, i got used to the Balkan way, especially after Albania. to places like the toilet/shower/washing room in the ¨camping¨ two days ago. But the clean, new, modern apartment somehow doesn't have such a positive effect as the guest house/hotel at Tuto’s in Gjirokaster where curtains separate rooms and where the family sleeps under a simple but comfortable shelter. More than 10 beds on mere 60 square meters...
Anyhow I feel all pumped up again, probably the electro music on the tv, the expresso and the frenzy of writing down 10 days of my life and some short articles staring at my mini screen and keyboard during 4 hours. But i lay back as Kreshnick comes back and we walk trough parks back into the center. Tonight is football time. Albania vs Malte. 3-0.
After some rest we go out to visit the city once more, photo exhibition, Maria Teresa street, Bill Clinton boulevard, an other Skanderberg statue, more friends, some strange omelet, internet session in the cooking sun on the balcony, washing clothes, drinking coffee, drinking beer, walking a lot, UN buildings, official buildings, many many official white 4 wheel drive cars on the streets etc... A couple normal days out in a city. Tonight ends with a long talk into the night with an other CS member.
The next day we were supposed to get to some waterfalls after Timi and his friend got their visa to Belgium for a year of exchange. but administration is giving them a hard time, it wont be anything today. This ain't to bad, i will have more time for those waterfall later, but the day ends and Timi did not get his visa. His flight is on Sunday, no visa, he will have to postpone it... An other very concrete example of the difficulty faced when wanting to get out of your country. Belgium granted rights, procedure got stuck on the Kosovo side... I hope he will get there soon! I go and meet Nicola for the next days and nights.
Since i arrived i have been in this sterile milieu all the time, it would probably have seemed normal coming straight from Switzerland but now, i got used to the Balkan way, especially after Albania. to places like the toilet/shower/washing room in the ¨camping¨ two days ago. But the clean, new, modern apartment somehow doesn't have such a positive effect as the guest house/hotel at Tuto’s in Gjirokaster where curtains separate rooms and where the family sleeps under a simple but comfortable shelter. More than 10 beds on mere 60 square meters...
Anyhow I feel all pumped up again, probably the electro music on the tv, the expresso and the frenzy of writing down 10 days of my life and some short articles staring at my mini screen and keyboard during 4 hours. But i lay back as Kreshnick comes back and we walk trough parks back into the center. Tonight is football time. Albania vs Malte. 3-0.
After some rest we go out to visit the city once more, photo exhibition, Maria Teresa street, Bill Clinton boulevard, an other Skanderberg statue, more friends, some strange omelet, internet session in the cooking sun on the balcony, washing clothes, drinking coffee, drinking beer, walking a lot, UN buildings, official buildings, many many official white 4 wheel drive cars on the streets etc... A couple normal days out in a city. Tonight ends with a long talk into the night with an other CS member.
The next day we were supposed to get to some waterfalls after Timi and his friend got their visa to Belgium for a year of exchange. but administration is giving them a hard time, it wont be anything today. This ain't to bad, i will have more time for those waterfall later, but the day ends and Timi did not get his visa. His flight is on Sunday, no visa, he will have to postpone it... An other very concrete example of the difficulty faced when wanting to get out of your country. Belgium granted rights, procedure got stuck on the Kosovo side... I hope he will get there soon! I go and meet Nicola for the next days and nights.
vendredi 17 octobre 2008
Frantic journey Hitchin’ boarders again.
Today started in my ¨Camping” waking up to a hard stone bench. It was Outsides to begin with but non stop winds were driving me crazy this night. The noise, the movement and the hair tickling my face were too much and did not allow me a correct rest. I found shelter from the wind on a stone bench, in a small cabin normally serving as a fresh lunch spot during the hot days. I spent my last Albanian money on last nights dinner, the night, a comestible neck less of dried figs and a coffee, leaving me with 400 leke for the ferry.
I meet a couple of Germans slowly heading home from a nice trip in Greece on a rented scooter, They are kind enough to complete my collection of lowest banknotes with a 100 lek note :) thanks! We have coffee and we then go to find a ride up the ferry port. Located a little higher, on the top of the hydroelectric barrage it offers a view into the beginning of what is going to be a beautiful ride through a narrow canyon.
The first car ride, who already brought me up the ferry pays for my ticket and explains to the locals who are asking why he does this that i will come back with 10 or 20 people next time :) Who is up for a tour in Albania?? b my guest i guide you around. My driver is a lawer who went to Germany for 4-5 years, worked and came back with some money and opened business. A very common life path in this area. In western Albania many speak Italian because they worked there (or are still do but are home for a couple month holidays), in the south they speak Greek and here closer to Kosovo and in Kosovo, they mostly know German. He now takes me to Bajram Curri, there i get delicious very needed midday breakfast break with the money i fortunately still have (thanks to my driver who payed the ferry ride) and pays for a spicy salty “boudin”, the Shujuk, some salad and bread, some fruits, fresh water and sweets.
Back on the road as i just walked 50 meters from the last shop and have my finger up to the first 5 cars, a seat iziya with a big fat albanian flag painted on the hood breaks hard, leaving two big black break marks on the asphalts, pulls back and a smiling dude invites me in. One more mad drive, no seatbelt allowed, he is a cop, knows the rules and drives fast and furiously through the curves to the next village where he invites me for a big cold beer. He is some sort of special agent and does transfers of convicts if i got it right...
Back again, after 5 min, only one cars past and this time a huge nissan patrol loudly breaks some 30 meters after the curve, pulls back and smilingly invites me to jump in. An other German speaking dude who made some money in Germany and open a business, he has a building company, 60 trucks and other heavy machinery under his hand. He will drive me past the boarder, driving good 120 as soon as its possible. The boarder is not passed without a good long red eagle, pit bull or coffee break and offering the boss of the place a cold beer. He is all frantic and talks to all the cops around. I, who cross boarders regularly at home, am amazed by the relationship between locals and customs officers. At the Kosovan boarder, we stay an other quarter of an hour talking to the agent whom i saluted by his name in Albanian :) I don't get a stamp but a separat piece of paper so i dont have trouble getting beck into serbia... As soon as we are over the boarder, he keeps speeding but askes me to put on my seatbelt, different country different police :) After the crasiest boarder passing so far, he tells me how little they earn and that they deserve a little extra (he give i supose when he needs to take something over the boarder).
Dropped in the first bigger town where he has business to do, he wants to get me on a bus :) again they don't understand hitchhiking around here... As i walk my what out of town, a gypsy picks me up with his machine. It is not commercial serial car rather hand crafted, but still i will see 2 or 3 very similar looking engines. blue soldered metal, a smoking engine fixed on the front, no hood, no shell at all actually, small amortizes from a scooter or something similar, a 2 seater bench and in the back a big ass saw which can be connected to the engine by swapping belts. Thats is his job, he drives around to the costumer and cuts wood!
The new spot is good enough to be squatted by 2 wondering young kosovan asking what the fuck i m doing around here sticking my thumb up ... hehe
Yet an other German speaking dude picks me up for a couple kilometers. For the first time today, i actually waited, maybe short 30 min :)... The ride is unfortunately to short for him to tell me his whole life story which sounded dramatic and very interesting. Married to a German woman, he ended up in jail for 18 month, the type of none deserved and heavy impacting jail experience from what i can read in his eyes. He was betrayed and got 18 month of shit for it. God helps he tells me, now i have a good wife and just got a son 3 weeks ago! All the man wants is a simple family life. I am glad he found it and wish him more luck, kids and a happy life, sincerely.
After a bit into my apple, a Porsche cayenne drives up, the driver is the man from Koman i chated with a little while waiting for the ferry and on the ferry. An other heavy breaking, silent this on, must be the ABS :) and i m off to Pristine... He also speaks German, was actually born in Germany, as he says you got all sorts of Albanian stories in Germany! He has a successful business he wont speak much about. As a matter of fact thy don't speak much at all. The driving is little more cautious when overtaking, but this is only considering the power of his car, roaring up to 130 in a matter of a couple meters. The acceleration can really be felt. I know have a little more understanding of th people driving this fat ass car. Not that it is justified but it it fucking comfortable, fast, well acclimatized and sonorized (bose speakers). As i think this and give the driver a little credit, he justifies my original opinion about fat ass luxury 4 wheel drivers, he is a big pig throwing his garbage out the window.
He leaves me at the crossroads to the airport where i hop on a bus. Sitting just behind the driver who again asks me if i speak German... He worked 5 years to buy his bus (in France) and now drives people around Kosovo. Simple life with German investment. He is as most people well surprised by my trip and offers me the ride. His friend sitting next to him and entertaining his drive, asks if she can join me to hitchhike to France to visit her brother :) i a couple month, sure :)
Arriving in Pristine at sunset, after passing the white UN blocks, the city center reddish blocks reflect the evening light. Asking directions on the street i get into a conversation with Fatos who wants to take care of me and show me around, but tomorrow, he has loads to do today. Nice people around here! I Head for an internet cafe and speak to my future hosts. I m feeling excellent once again. Waiting for Kreshnik and his cousin Koka under Bill Clinton's portrait, I realize i am all pumped up a sped up... is it the reading of Neal's rides trough the states or mine trough the Albanian-Kosovo boarder???
Good feeling anyhow. I think I love the road.
I meet a couple of Germans slowly heading home from a nice trip in Greece on a rented scooter, They are kind enough to complete my collection of lowest banknotes with a 100 lek note :) thanks! We have coffee and we then go to find a ride up the ferry port. Located a little higher, on the top of the hydroelectric barrage it offers a view into the beginning of what is going to be a beautiful ride through a narrow canyon.
The first car ride, who already brought me up the ferry pays for my ticket and explains to the locals who are asking why he does this that i will come back with 10 or 20 people next time :) Who is up for a tour in Albania?? b my guest i guide you around. My driver is a lawer who went to Germany for 4-5 years, worked and came back with some money and opened business. A very common life path in this area. In western Albania many speak Italian because they worked there (or are still do but are home for a couple month holidays), in the south they speak Greek and here closer to Kosovo and in Kosovo, they mostly know German. He now takes me to Bajram Curri, there i get delicious very needed midday breakfast break with the money i fortunately still have (thanks to my driver who payed the ferry ride) and pays for a spicy salty “boudin”, the Shujuk, some salad and bread, some fruits, fresh water and sweets.
Back on the road as i just walked 50 meters from the last shop and have my finger up to the first 5 cars, a seat iziya with a big fat albanian flag painted on the hood breaks hard, leaving two big black break marks on the asphalts, pulls back and a smiling dude invites me in. One more mad drive, no seatbelt allowed, he is a cop, knows the rules and drives fast and furiously through the curves to the next village where he invites me for a big cold beer. He is some sort of special agent and does transfers of convicts if i got it right...
Back again, after 5 min, only one cars past and this time a huge nissan patrol loudly breaks some 30 meters after the curve, pulls back and smilingly invites me to jump in. An other German speaking dude who made some money in Germany and open a business, he has a building company, 60 trucks and other heavy machinery under his hand. He will drive me past the boarder, driving good 120 as soon as its possible. The boarder is not passed without a good long red eagle, pit bull or coffee break and offering the boss of the place a cold beer. He is all frantic and talks to all the cops around. I, who cross boarders regularly at home, am amazed by the relationship between locals and customs officers. At the Kosovan boarder, we stay an other quarter of an hour talking to the agent whom i saluted by his name in Albanian :) I don't get a stamp but a separat piece of paper so i dont have trouble getting beck into serbia... As soon as we are over the boarder, he keeps speeding but askes me to put on my seatbelt, different country different police :) After the crasiest boarder passing so far, he tells me how little they earn and that they deserve a little extra (he give i supose when he needs to take something over the boarder).
Dropped in the first bigger town where he has business to do, he wants to get me on a bus :) again they don't understand hitchhiking around here... As i walk my what out of town, a gypsy picks me up with his machine. It is not commercial serial car rather hand crafted, but still i will see 2 or 3 very similar looking engines. blue soldered metal, a smoking engine fixed on the front, no hood, no shell at all actually, small amortizes from a scooter or something similar, a 2 seater bench and in the back a big ass saw which can be connected to the engine by swapping belts. Thats is his job, he drives around to the costumer and cuts wood!
The new spot is good enough to be squatted by 2 wondering young kosovan asking what the fuck i m doing around here sticking my thumb up ... hehe
Yet an other German speaking dude picks me up for a couple kilometers. For the first time today, i actually waited, maybe short 30 min :)... The ride is unfortunately to short for him to tell me his whole life story which sounded dramatic and very interesting. Married to a German woman, he ended up in jail for 18 month, the type of none deserved and heavy impacting jail experience from what i can read in his eyes. He was betrayed and got 18 month of shit for it. God helps he tells me, now i have a good wife and just got a son 3 weeks ago! All the man wants is a simple family life. I am glad he found it and wish him more luck, kids and a happy life, sincerely.
After a bit into my apple, a Porsche cayenne drives up, the driver is the man from Koman i chated with a little while waiting for the ferry and on the ferry. An other heavy breaking, silent this on, must be the ABS :) and i m off to Pristine... He also speaks German, was actually born in Germany, as he says you got all sorts of Albanian stories in Germany! He has a successful business he wont speak much about. As a matter of fact thy don't speak much at all. The driving is little more cautious when overtaking, but this is only considering the power of his car, roaring up to 130 in a matter of a couple meters. The acceleration can really be felt. I know have a little more understanding of th people driving this fat ass car. Not that it is justified but it it fucking comfortable, fast, well acclimatized and sonorized (bose speakers). As i think this and give the driver a little credit, he justifies my original opinion about fat ass luxury 4 wheel drivers, he is a big pig throwing his garbage out the window.
He leaves me at the crossroads to the airport where i hop on a bus. Sitting just behind the driver who again asks me if i speak German... He worked 5 years to buy his bus (in France) and now drives people around Kosovo. Simple life with German investment. He is as most people well surprised by my trip and offers me the ride. His friend sitting next to him and entertaining his drive, asks if she can join me to hitchhike to France to visit her brother :) i a couple month, sure :)
Arriving in Pristine at sunset, after passing the white UN blocks, the city center reddish blocks reflect the evening light. Asking directions on the street i get into a conversation with Fatos who wants to take care of me and show me around, but tomorrow, he has loads to do today. Nice people around here! I Head for an internet cafe and speak to my future hosts. I m feeling excellent once again. Waiting for Kreshnik and his cousin Koka under Bill Clinton's portrait, I realize i am all pumped up a sped up... is it the reading of Neal's rides trough the states or mine trough the Albanian-Kosovo boarder???
Good feeling anyhow. I think I love the road.
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| Ferry ride |
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